Today a made a quick trip to the very west of La Gomera and had a chilling time at Tagaluche and Playa Alojera. It was not that sunny, but warm and nearly no wind going. Watching the surf and have a good glas of cortado can make a day 😉 On may way back I just shopped some very local and rural souvenirs.
24°C temperature 4h duration 3Km walking distance 200m elevation gain
Still recovering from a fierce cold, I could not stay in the hotel for longer and so I took the car, just to visit the next valley. Distance by air 6Km, resulting in one to have a 1,5h ride to go and drive about 45 kilometers to get there.
Nevertheless, La Rajita was nice. It’s a very lonely place, characterized by the old fish factory (closed in 1984) and some of its old and rusty crane and winch equipment. I took my way back, slightly above Playa Santiago in the very south, just to catch some further impressions.
24°C temperature 4h duration 4Km walking distance 100m elevation gain
Driving up to the top of La Gomera, I found the clouds to be high enough to have free sight to the Alto de Garajoney, the highest point of La Gomera. I left the car at the visitor center at La Laguna Grande and had a fantastic walk through the Gomera laurel woods. Starting in light rain, the path leads though dark deep woods, barren plains and, always windy, up to the top. I’d chosen to combine some of the different possible tracks, to enjoyed this mystic forest a little longer. Due to the changing, always wet conditions and the sharp cold wind it ended up more or less in an excursion to the Gomeran fauna. Nevertheless, there was some sun at the top and a slightly good but hazy view to the neighbor islands Tenerife, La Palma and El Hiero.
6-12°C temperature 4h duration 14Km length 500m elevation gain
Searching for my sunny spot, I found a nice view to Tenerife and the sun it in the very north-west of La Gomera. Starting in the village of Alojera, a well-prepared path leads down through palm yards and gardens, later to the narrow Barranco Mono, to the wonderful, lonely and wild Playa del Trigo. Accessing the beach was even prohibited due to rock slides, but fortunately I recognized the sign only on my way back.
Back in Valle Gran Rey I took a short detour to the local harbor. Seems as if there are some really good fish restaurants…
Palm trees, old barns and villages – La Gomera (Day 4)
Valle Gran Rey was, again, covered by clouds, shaken by heavy winds, freshen up by pouring rain…
No laurel forest, wind clouds, cold… I told that story already before…
I went to the north again and walked a great path, starting somewhere between Vallehermoso and its beach, leading over harsh ridges, through warm and muggy valleys, passing abandoned farms, palm trees, palms trees and palm trees and the beautiful villages of Los Barriales and Simancas. The track itself is best described with 3 steep, heavy climbs, two steep and one longer descent. Every turn, very up or down offers new impressive views to the great nature of northern Gomera.
16-23°C temperature 4,5h duration 13Km length 800m elevation gain
A(nother) walk above the northern shore – La Gomera (Day 3)
Valle Gran Rey was covered by clouds, shaken by heavy winds, freshen up by pouring rain and heavily hit by an unusual high wave during the night. Even parts of the promenade wall got wrecked.
Great conditions to get in the car and drive up to the national park, to explore the pristine Canarian laurel forest. Not… 8° up there, the streets slippery covered with water and leaves and boughs, ripped off by the cutting sharp wind.
Therefore, I choose to search my sunny spot again up in the north, in the slipstream of the island and I found it in the very north east. A path high above the shore, with some hazy views to the westly end of Tenerife, Punta del Teno and the Ermita de Guadalupe above a black graveled beach. Beach and Ermita pictures found their abnormal end on a deceased storage card…
23°C 3h (with feed in the ocean break) 6Km 250m height difference
A walk above the northern shore – La Gomera (Day 2)
Spend the early morning to get my stuff together, water for hikes, a bottle of La Gomera white wine and some sun protection (optimistic me…) and left Valle Grand Rey at about 09:30 to do a short walk up in the mountains and conquer the top of La Gomera. The top was not willing to get conquered because of 9°C, really heavy winds and dripping wet clouds. So I changes planes and, because of the strong winds from the south, I went to the north, hoping for some dryer and calmer conditions.
I decided to walk a path above the northern shore, starting at Playa de la Caleta, to visit the old Muelle de Punta San Lorenzo, an abandoned dock, build in former times to load bananas.
It’s an easy walk on a well-prepared track that offers great views to the coat line and the Atlantic Ocean, always high above the northern shore. Only two steep segments need to be got over to reach the old dock side – a wonderful quite place, even if the waves break noisy below at the rocks.
The ferry trip from Tenerife, Los Christianos, to La Gomera was somehow challenging. Starting at 07:00 p.m. dawn fall quickly at the Fred. Olsen catamaran jumped the post storm waves with about 27knt. It was quite shaky and the main challenge was not to follow the example of so many other passengers and puke right in front of your seat, even if the odour strongly recommends you to.
Things got better when the light of San Sebastian de La Gomera came in sight and some fixed point could be eyed. Got my car and got on the way to Valle Gran Rey in the west of La Gomera. Feels strange to pass some of La Gomeras most famous attractions on this 50Km trip, but being unable to see anything because of darkness and thick fog.
Reaching my Hotel, Playa Calera, I got a nice room and due to my late arrival, I was – attentive and obliging – offered a late night snack with some bread, cheese and fruits.
Valle Gran Rey will be my base for the next two weeks and I’m looking forward to explore La Gomera. The weather could get a little better – there where thick, dripping wet clouds and stormy winds on the island top and also some clouds down at the shore.
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